Why You Need Azelaic Acid in Your Life
What is Azelaic Acid?
You’re probably familiar with the classics like glycolic and salicylic acid but have you heard about their cool younger sibling azelaic acid? Azelaic acid is a natural compound that the yeast in our skin produces naturally to control redness and inflammation. When applied topically, azelaic acid is used to calm inflammation, fight acne, and fade hyperpigmentation. It can be derived from grains but is usually created synthetically as a skincare product ingredient. Compared to an AHA or BHA, azelaic acid doesn’t exfoliate the skin quite as effectively but it does have the added benefit of being antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory!
Azelaic Acid For Acne
Azelaic acid is a highly effective treatment for cystic, fungal, and adult acne. Studies have shown azelaic acid to be just as effective as 5% benzoyl peroxide and 0.05% tretinoin in fighting acne while being less irritating for your skin. So if you’re currently trying to treat your acne with these products and want a more mild alternative, consider giving azelaic acid a try.
The benefits of azelaic acid are three-fold when it comes to combatting acne. First off, azelaic acid is antimicrobial so it kills Propionibacterium acnes (the bacteria that cause acne breakouts). Second, it’s a comedolytic which literally means pore blockage destruction. It tells your skin cells to shed at a normal rate so that they don’t stick around too long and clog your pores which causes pimples. Lastly, azelaic acid calms down the inflammation of the skin that comes with acne flare-ups. What this all means is that azelaic acid doesn’t just fight existing acne, but it also stops breakouts from happening in the first place.
After breakouts, when you’re left with pesky red spots to remind you where your pimples once stood, azelaic acid will continue to fight for you. As an anti-inflammatory, azelaic acid will calm the redness from post inflammatory erythema and diminish the appearance of those post-acne marks.
Azelaic Acid For Hyperpigmentation
In addition to fighting acne, azelaic acid gets a lot of credit for fading hyperpigmentation. Azelaic acid is a tyrosinase inhibitor which means it suppresses the enzyme tyrosinase that converts into melanin (the dark pigment in our skin). By inhibiting melanin production, azelaic acid effectively lightens hyperpigmentation and brightens the skin. It’s a pretty smart lil acid too and knows to concentrate on lightening only the abnormal pigment in our skin, opposed to another popular hyperpigmentation-fighting ingredient, hydroquinone, which lightens all pigment in its path. The types of hyperpigmentation that azelaic acid can fade include post-acne dark spots, age spots, sun spots, etc.
Azelaic Acid For Rosacea
If you’re not familiar with rosacea, consider yourself lucky! Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition without a cure that causes redness, pimples and swelling on the face. It can be triggered by many things, some of which include sun exposure, stress, spicy foods, alcohol, and exercise. Azelaic acid helps those with rosacea by calming down the inflammation of flareups and reducing persistent redness.
Azelaic Acid During Pregnancy
Azelaic acid is well known as a perfectly safe acne treatment for pregnant women. Acne is the number one skin problem that women develop during pregnancy and while other acids tend to be avoided for cautionary reasons, azelaic acid has been agreed upon by dermatologists as an acne treatment that’s very safe to use during pregnancy because it’s an all-natural compound that is already present in our skin.
When to Use Azelaic Acid
Since it doesn’t cause UV sensitivity, you can use azelaic acid during the morning or night. The formulation of the product (gel vs. cream, silicones or no silicones) will determine at which point in your routine it fits best. Azelaic acid can cause itchy skin when you begin to use it but this can be mitigated by applying a moisturizing layer as a buffer before your azelaic acid. Another bonus is that you can safely combine azelaic acid with any other active ingredient treatments. An azelaic acid and glycolic acid combination is a popular mixture that works together to lighten dark spots and brighten the skin.
Azelaic acid takes time to work and it can be several months before your skin starts to see significant results. Be patient during this time as the outcome will be worth your wait!
Best Azelaic Acid Over the counter Products
Most studies that cite the benefits of azelaic acid are talking about prescription concentrations like the 15% Azelaic Acid Finacea Gel or the 20% Azelaic Acid Azelax Cream that are available in prescription form only. So if you’re serious about azelaic acid, talk to your dermatologist about these options. Alternatively, there are a few over the counter azelaic acid options that will still make powerful improvements for your skin!
1. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Ringing up at less than $15, The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is the best budget over the counter azelaic acid option we have. A 10% azelaic acid concentration is suspended in a gel-cream formula with silicones. Due to the silicones, the texture of this product is fairly thick and occlusive so I like to use it at night as a final moisturizer. I’ve tried using it during the daytime but found that it pilled underneath my sunscreen.
2. Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
The Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is a bit pricier than The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension but is worth it for those who just can’t deal with the silicones in The Ordinary’s. This Paula’s Choice booster also has a 10% concentration of azelaic acid but is in a formula that’s much more thinner, spreadable and adaptable to different skincare routines. It’s called a “booster” because you can mix it with any other skincare product to “boost” it and apply them at once. Personally, I like the way it applies on its own so I would use it after my hydrating toner but before my moisturizer during the day or night.
