Essences & Serums
Essences vs. Serums
Typically, essences are watery-like treatments that contain fermenting ingredients and serums are thicker (but still light-weight), liquid-based formulas with a variety of ingredients and jobs to do. I so often see serums marketed as essences have also seen products marketed as an "essence serum" - how confusing is that?! That's why I went ahead and just combined them in this post. Essences first emerged in Asian skincare - they actually use two different types of essences at two different times in their routine! Their classic "first essence" has the consistency of water and typically contains fermenting ingredients that helping the rest of your routine absorb into your skin better. They also have products labeled just "essences" which are a little thicker and closely resemble serums that are applied later in the routine. So I think that's where the mix-up came from when essences met western marketing.
What Are Essences?
If you're using a traditional "first essence" with water-like consistency, it will likely be thinner than your hydrating toner and can be applied first, right after cleansing or actives if you use them. These types of essences will likely contain some fermenting ingredients (like yeast) which help break down the molecules of other ingredients so your skin can better absorb them. Fermenting ingredients can also reduce skin irritation because they neutralize toxic substances found in some skincare products.
When using an essence that’s thick like a serum then apply it after your hydrating toner if you’re using one. I know this can all get confusing but when in doubt, just remember the general rule: apply your products from thinnest to thickest.
Recommendations: Neogen Real Ferment Micro Essence, COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence, SK-II Facial Treatment Essence, Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence, Cosrx Galactomyces 95 Whitening Power Essence
What Are Serums?
Now let's talk traditional serums. They're water-based formulas that are absorbed by your skin more easily than lotions and creams due to their smaller molecules. They can contain ingredients like humectants, ceramides, plant extracts, etc., and usually, come packaged with a dropper or a pump so that you can easily control how much you apply. Actives are often delivered in the form of serums but I’ve set those aside into their own step in the routine steps guide because they require more care and consideration of use than something like basic hydrating serum.
There are too many serums out there to recommend just a handful. Instead, below are some ingredients to look out for!
Niacinamide (AKA vitamin B3): an active ingredient that's not pH dependent. It targets hyper-pigmentation by inhibiting melanin production and brightens overall skin tone.
Hyaluronic Acid (HA): as the master of hydration, HA can attract up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Then it shoves that water into your skin before it has the chance to evaporate.
Snail Mucin (AKA snail goo, snail secretion filtrate): yes, it comes from actual snails and no, they weren't harmed in the process. It's a natural moisturizer packed with collagen and elastin and has been shown to increase skin elasticity, diminish fine lines, fight redness and heal post-acne inflammation. After a zit popping sesh (I know- tsk, tsk), I'll apply snail mucin and wake up with far less redness in those areas. Read my full post on snail mucin here.
Propolis: comes from honey and is a natural anti-inflammatory with healing properties to soothe problematic skin.
Vitamin E: an antioxidant that fights off free radicals from the environment and pairs really well with vitamin C.